FOOD´S EYE VIEW: Shrimp and Oyster Po´ Boy at Orleans & York Deli

4454 W Slauson Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90043
Dine date: Sat 2.22.14, 11:45am

When arguing over LA´s best sandwiches you´ll hear about Italian subs from Bay Cities or Roma Deli and Grocery, fried chicken from Free Range LA, the pastrami at Langer´s, French dip at Philippe, or even the tongue sandwich found at Westwood´s Attari Sandwich Shop. Always absent from the conversation though, is the po´ boy, a Louisiana staple and one of my absolute favorite types of sandwiches to eat.

It´s not that Angelenos don´t enjoy po´ boys, but there just aren´t very many good ones to be had. Enter Orleans & York Deli, a self-described "True American Delicatessen" whose menu reads like a best of New Orleans and New York: po´ boys, muffulettas, and heros with enough options to satisfy anybody. Although I can´t yet speak on their other offerings, I can confidently say that their po´ boy is the best you´ll find without having to travel to the Big Easy.

Start with the bread, a crusty French loaf split in half to reveal the fluffy insides, soft as cotton. It´s slathered with mayonnaise, just enough to slick the bread and lubricate the other components, but not so much that it oozes out of the sides and down your fingers. Shredded lettuce and ripe tomato slices provide the balance to the perfectly battered and fried seafood. The shrimp aren´t puny in the slightest; instead we´re talking somewhere in the medium-large range, perfectly cooked so that they´re still snappy. The oysters are fresh and bursting with their natural brine, entirely worthy of ordering all on their own.

The po´ boys run about $10 but can easily be eaten in two sittings due to their large size, although good luck stopping after finishing the first half. Orleans & York may not be the dedicated Creole eatery that Los Angeles so desperately needs, but you better believe that their po´ boys put all others to shame in this city.

-Julian Pappas